When you’re in a hurry: At a featherweight 23g the super-compact (when rolled up) S-Tubo-Road stands out with very low rolling resistance which outpaces standard rubber tubes yet is comparable to latex tubes. With 78% smaller packed size and the same puncture resistance as standard tubes the S-Tubo-Road is the perfect choice as a spare and can be the crucial factor when you’re riding long and hard. Specifically made for disc brakes (not suitable for rim brakes).

The S-Tubo Road tube is with 23 grams not only very light, but also extremely compact and impresses with its extra low rolling resistance which puts butyl tubes in the shade and is even better than latex products.

With a 78 % smaller pack size and robustness than standard tubes, the S-Tubo Road 700C is the ideal choice as a replacement tube and in the battle for best times and personal records. Available with 42, 60 and 80 mm valve length.

Puncture sealants and repair sprays may be used with Tubolito to increase puncture resistance, ie vittoria.

Designed, developed and made in Europe
Tubolito Tubes made of the high-tech Thermoplast material can resist forces twice as much as standard tubing. The material can be stretched more than four times, giving maximum protection before a flat tyre.

Tubolito tubes tried and tested
A 0.75 mm test pin runs with a defined speed through a predrilled hole of the outer tire. Tyre pressure is 2.0 bar, the test object a Tubo MTB tube. The power and the route to the tire pitcher are recorded. Tubolito convinces here clearly: The puncture protection is twice as high as for standard tubes.

Specifications

Material high-tech Thermoplastic
Intended use Cyclocross, Gravel, Road bike
Valve type Sclaverand / Presta
Valve length 42 mm / 60 mm / 80 mm
Tyre dimension 28 inch
Tyre Width 18 - 28 mm
Weight approx. 23 g

Worth the money

By: on 9 October 2020
I've read a lot and realised apart from skewers, bang for buck it's the best mod you can make. But the reviews are all only patchy. So after my experiences, I thought I'd do my part and give a full run down on what I reakon is one of the best innovations for a while. I run rim brake carbon wheels on my roadie. Bought these just before lockdown. By mistake got the S version. After doing a heap of digging I found out officially the S model is intended as a direct rival to latex tubes. But the S stands for spare ie the second primary focus of this verison (I know primary means one but I didn't write the blurbs) is to act as a spare for tubeless tyres. Also the official factory recommendation is to not use the S version of the road tube with rim brakes as the heat from braking may be too much. But digging further found information from one of the company founders. He said these are between latex and butyl for heat resistance and if it fails, it won't pop, it will gradually get thinner as it expands due to the heat hence slowly leak air because it's not seam joined like a normal tube where that seam is a weak point so more chance of being able to slow down as the air escapes than have to try to slow down with a blown tyre - these are butt joined so there is a tiny area that has a chance of splitting compared to a normal tube. The article also noted the company owner as saying if you've gotten to the point the tube starts to fail due to heat from braking, you're probably also cooking other things ie you're probably trying to ride down Mt Everest. They are a bit fiddly to install because they're like a balloon - you have to give them shape enough before install first so they will find themselves around the rim. I've found blowing in to the valve as much as possible gives you the necessary shape. The other tricky think I found was they are a lot more slippery hence you have to be careful the valve doesn't end up on an angle as you get the tyre back on the rim - I've tried both ways and found it is best to put the valve in first then work around the rim gradually - if you have to remove the tyre again to reposition the valve as I had to on both wheels (couldn't find a novel like my review as reference) they are tough like a bank note so you won't damage them, but like a bank note they will split the moment they get cut so make sure your levers have no sharp edges. Once the tyre is on, then it's just as any other tube - put a bit more air, check no pinching, then pump up. You'll hear a lot of creaking but that's just the material expanding. Riding: I run wind 40's with 23mm 5000s - I'm a true ww and get a light and narrow enough rig and you get up enough speed you don't notice the bumps... I only changed the tubes and the difference was very easy to spot - you can feel the tube resisting the road while the responsiveness is just so much better. Not talking racing 4 to speed40 but will you will notice the difference, particularly because it's rotational mass that is outside. I've had no issues with heat from braking and I live around a couple of steep but admittedly short hills, but a lot of stop start traffic. That's my decision and there's the manufacturer recommendations. Apparently with the S model you can remove the valve to make storing easier but I haven't tried and I think no need because they're so small anyway. The only thing I would recommend is try to avoid the 80mm valve if you can because it's two piece thus would mean you may get leaks at that join - I've read some who have to get the longer valve and have experienced this issue solve it by sealing the join with plumbing tape. The only issue I've had is after a few weeks the front tube goes flat to about 50% then quickly goes completely flat. I suspect it's the valve screw to valve body - the valve body is plastic and so the valve body and screw assembly I suspect is ever so slightly not a tight fit . But remember it's gone from 120psi to 0 over the course of about a month of no use. The rear over the course of a month looses about 60% then stays seems to stay there. I've used countless brands of tubes and recently Conti Race Lights and both wheels would loose about half after a month then gradually get worse. So despite the plastic and metal valve design, its within normal expectations. I've read others have experienced this but the theme as the reviews have gotten newer is this is less of a problem - I suspect few are buying the S model hence the stock I got was probably an older version. And finally the weight - on an accurate scale (not Parktool), they came in at 21 grams each. The Racelights were 70 grams. So for around $80 you loose 100g which is about 250g as it's rotational mass and while a little fiddlier to install and the valve might be a slight naughty at times, more than offset by the fact the colour helps you better install the thing, it's really easy to carry in your back pocket and most of all, they make a de
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